Colin and I truly enjoyed watching the Nats play the Braves at the new ballpark. We had a glorious time and enjoyed the sights and food, too.
Living in DC and witnessing all the drama and excitement of getting our own hometown National League baseball team and watching the stadium get built in front of my own eyes -- I love my Washington Nationals -- just as I have learned to love the Redskins (almost as much as my Falcons) and of course the DC United and the Caps.
But, no matter what happens or where I go, I'll never forget those Braves from the dusty city of Atlanta bringing it home and going to the World Series in 1991 and winning for 14 consecutive season.
Yes, I remember you and I'll never forget Sid Bream sliding into Home to beat the Pittsburgh Pirates in the 9th inning of the most glorious game I've ever watched (I was in SWOS then).
Go Nats, but for tonight (as well as every other night) Go Braves!
In Amsterdam -- After returning from the front lines, I took a tour bus to
Amsterdam yesterday. It was very interesting. Quite different than Kabul, and a lot more relaxing.
I was really impressed with the canals and architecture, but for me the easiest way to get around was by bike.
Amsterdam is one of the most bicycle-friendly cities in the world and is a centre of bicycle culture with good facilities for cyclists such as bike paths and bike racks.In the city centre, driving a car is discouraged. Parking fees are expensive, and many streets are closed to cars or are one-way.
The most important museums of Amsterdam are located on het Museumplein (Museum Square), located at the southern side of the Rijksmuseum.
The Silk Road from China to the Mediterranean Sea is one of the oldest and significant merchant routes in the world
During our event-filled, jam-packed, three-day, cross-country marathon we would visit three diverse regions (Kabul, Jalalabad and Kandahar). Kandahar, the second largest city in Afghanistan, is a major trading center for sheep, wool, cotton, silk, fruit and tobacco. Many empires have long fought over the city, due to its strategic location along the the Southern Asian trade routes. Afghanistan, a land-locked mountainous country, has long been a vital crossroads between the East and the West which centuries before was part of the ancient Silk Road.
24th MEU working with the locals from Garmsir.
The local government and citizens of Garmsir District are working to correct
the flow of the river back to its original course, after high water levels from
I found this video on YouTube which shows the true beauty of Afghanistan (some of it taken before the war took its brutal toll)
The chaotic madness of Kabul is surrounded by beautiful, idyllic, barren mountains. From within the compound, they look like cardboard cut-outs -- close and protective. But in reality, they are towering and distant -- with all the windy roads and tough, dangerous terrain; it could take a fortnight to reach the summit, but only with preparation and skill.
Some say that the terrain that is traversed by ATVs and donkeys are as dangerous as the enemy that lurks around it.
To really enjoy the natural beauty of this country, one must leave Kabul. There is a very rich history and diverse landscape in this amazing country.
History of Occupation
After all, the city was invaded by the Arabs during the 7th century and then by the British in the 19th century and then by the Soviets 30 years ago. Oddly enough, all occupiers have eventually failed. The Soviets occupied for nearly ten years but had to withdraw their forces from Kabul in 1989 the wake of increasing diplomatic pressures.
Soviet tanks during the occupation
Anti-Modernism
On the heights of the Kabul Gorge, you can still find pendants, daggers, sword hilts and scabbards dating back to the first Anglo-Afghan war (1839-1842). Sadly, all that remained from the British occupation of Afghanistan were thousands of dead and a steep opposition to foreign influence. That is probably why there was huge public backlash against modernization attempts by the Afghan government and why the country precipitously slipped backwards.
A Time of Peace
There was a time of peace and stability in Afghanistan. For over thirty years after World War II, the country was calm, stable and passionate about democracy. People from all around the world started visiting the country. They were enchanted with the raw, natural beauty, history and archeology, and the Afghans welcomed them with open arms.
But then in 1973, a military coup ousted the king, destabilizing the country. Then in the late 1970s under a communist regime, the country's became more impoverished, more unstable. Then in 1979, the Soviets came knocking, only to be embroiled in a ten-year war that killed thousands. The Soviets were finally driven out by US-backed resistance fighters, some of the same fighters who we are facing today.
Landscape
Landmines are still prevalent in Afghanistan
The countryside of Afghanistan is rustic and breathtaking. From a distance, the rugged hills and countryside can be poetically beautiful. With its luscious landscape and towering mountains, it is undiscovered beauty marked by the ravages of war. From time to time, you see Soviet tanks ravaged and rusting. Large holes like craters where the Soviets dug in their tanks. We pass thousands of destroyed homes, twisted pieces of artillery remind us of the scope and brutality of that war.
This landlocked country sandwiched in between Iran and Pakistan is in a prime location and has a lot to offer. It has suffered three decades of war and a seven-year drought. Overtime, the flags change but the victims remain the villagers who labor in the fields that have been ravaged by the Taliban. Life is short here; for some, there is not much to life to live for.
Despite all the horrors of war, the country is charming and naturally beautiful which needs to be appreciated and preserved. The city over the years has been destroyed many times over and then reconstructed, only to be faced with new regimes.
My Reflections
During this trip while visiting the sites and enjoying the scenery as we were transported from one location to another, I thought long and hard about what we were doing and why we were here.
Simply put, Afghanistan is critical because we must defeat the Taliban, the culprits of 9/11.
War is Winnable
Unlike Iraq, the Afghan war is the right war to fight and although extremely complex and difficult, ultimately can be winnable. We can push back the Taliban's advances and leave the nation of Afghanistan with a government that can govern effectively and provide security to its people -- people who hopefully may deem the Taliban ineffective -- who have suffered painfully for so many decades.
Why Afghanistan
Al-Qaeda has used Afghanistan as a base for training and operations for attacks against the US for the last ten years. Both Al-Qaeda and the Taliban poses a huge threat to our national security, so an invasion of Afghanistan by the US and NATO was the right thing to do, and we have little choice but to succeed, or else history may prove this to be a mistake.
American Intervention Goes Way Back
I'm sure many of you have watched the movie "Charlie Wilson's War". If it wasn't for the CIA intervention in the 1980s, the enemy that we are fighting today may not be as strong.
Charlie Wilson in Afghanistan years ago
In the 1980s, the CIA poured millions of dollars and thousands of weapons into Afghanistan to help the mujahideen fight the Soviet. Perhaps this was not too bad of an idea. But the mistake that we made was not helping to rebuild the country after the Soviets retreated.
Now the Taliban is using the same weapons against us. How does this affect where we are now -- there is not a clear and cut answer. The main concern was that this operation was done in secret behind closed doors. If an endeavor is important and the right thing to do, then it needs to withstand the scrutiny of the people who will be impacted.
The Power of Negotiation
The repercussions that we suffer show time and time again that clandestine backdoor deals normally don't work (in the long run). History books don't lie or spin the truth. I realize that clandestine operations wrt CIA is necessary and critical for national security. They are normally "outside the box" thinking and tend to be laced in good intentions -- which I believe can be the right thing to do. But...
It's Not the Mistakes, Stupid...
In life, I am normally forgiving to honest mistakes, but not receptive to being oblivious to them. This means, that if a surgeon cuts the wrong vein, this is bad, but I'll likely forgive you. But did you identify your mistake, disclose it, discuss it, and take demonstrable actions to recover from it?
I learned (after many personal and professional failures), the best way to make decisions whether strategic or perhaps even quite routine is to be open and transparent about it, and even be willing to sell it to others, whether you deem them important or not.
Out On the Table
Being open and honest means putting on the table all you want to negotiate and to have an open discussion with all stake holders. It doesn't matter how wild and crazy (wrazy) or completely irrelevant the proposal is -- it's on the table and you're going to vet these wrazy ideas with those who know the most. Vetings are not necessarily democratic -- it doesn't mean that it has to be voted on, or approved unanimously. It does mean that you have to completely vet it and before you take objective action, the key players have been informed and have made their say, for which you have listened. When listening, give it your complete and undivided attention -- not just the message, but how it was delivered and the politics behind the delivery. Life is not black and white -- it is quite gray.
The Art of Selling
Open Negotiation also includes selling the idea. When I say sell, it is just not to your normal customers (subscribers, followers, surrogates). It is to everyone that you can think of that has a say or think they have a say. Audiences are never fully well defined -- well, again they can be quite gray.
That way other key players can weigh in and provide valuable feedback and pit falls.
If you or your agency has a proposal, you have to pitch it and fully disclose your intentions and objectives -- no holds barred.
Decisions also need to include Reflections of lessons and mistakes from way back and the political environment that exists.
If you decide to make decision behind closed doors -- this is where backdoor deals can get caught between the door and the door jam.
Can we negotiate with the Taliban? President Hamid Karzai tends to think so -- and forge a path to peace. Applying my thoughts, the Taliban is the enemy and negotiation should include those who do not wish us well.
The main lesson here is we are already suffering from the repercussions of past mistakes, can we now move forward and not make them again.
Today we visited Jalalabad, a noisy, bustling city of rickshaws, bikes and pickup trucks. People in stalls selling just about everything from dried fruits, tobacco to household goods. Some people sell their wares on blankets spread over the sidewalk. Afghan boys jumping into the filthy canal water to wash off and bathe showing that the basic living conditions are miserable and atrocious - one of the poorest countries in the world.
Jalalabad is a critical location because it is close to Pakistan where a lot of the Taliban are hiding out. The rugged borders are difficult for NATO vehicles to patrol but very permeable for insurgents who can travel on foot and donkeys.
That's why it is critical for NATO to train the Afghan police and army. It is extremely critical for the long term success of Afghanistan for the Afghan National Army continues to grow in both strength and skillsets.
Indeed, The ANA has shown tremendous growth since July 2007, when the first commandos graduated from a grueling three-month training.
But the biggest concern in Afghanistan is not security. There will always be violence and suicide bombers. Just like organized crime in the US, the insurgents can never be completely wiped out. The Taliban can always run and hide across the border. The biggest concern and the element that will best defeat the insurgents is a strong government and reducing the amount of corruption especially amongst high-level officials. The existence of the heroin trade, unsecured borders and informal markets create conditions for administrative corruption. After more than two decades of conflict, Afghanistan is facing a complex set of political, economical and social challenges. Will she pull through?
Fair Share in NATO
And with most countries in NATO not providing their fair share of the requisite number of troops and equipment, it is even more critical that America train the Afghans properly and expeditiously.
But as casualties rise to record levels, the overall support of the war may soon plummet. It is now more imperative that we train the Afghan army and police so that they can continue to fight the Taliban for us.
And once again, the narcotics problem is feeding the Taliban to buy weapons which are used to kill our Troops. However, the narcotics effort cannot be won by our Troops alone. It is a law enforcement problem and one that must be contained by Afghan security forces.
Here is a video posted by Inayet showing a typical busy street in Jalalabad.
We first landed in a C-17 in Kabul at the International Airport. There were no limos waiting; no meet and greet holding signs -- just a thick haze of dust and humidity so thick you could slice it with a saif (curved, 19th century Arabian sword) and spread it on a chapati.
Kabul International -- from 1979 to 1989, the airport was run by the Soviet Union Red Army. After the invasion, the airport was used exclusively by the US Armed Forces and ISAF. After removal of the UN sanctions in 2002, the airport was opened up to civilian airlines.
We were methodically whisked away in a convoy of Humvees sandwiched between two armored personnel carriers. NATO Soldiers with machine guns kept a vigilant watch for insurgents or anything suspicious.
Who We Were
We were part of an advisory group for the NATO Supreme Allied Commander. Our boss, General Craddock, as NATO's top military commander oversaw the progress in Afghanistan. We would be receiving many briefs and updates during our short visit.
SHAPE Headquarters in Mons, Belgium
Who Met Us
Comprised of forces from over 25 nations, they were part of the International Security Assistance Force . Responsible at first for the security around Kabul, their mission had now expanded to the whole of Afghanistan, a conflict that we had come to observe.
A War we Had Previously Won
In December 2001, the world looked extremely different. The US had essentially shocked, awed and terminated the Taliban regime in Afghanistan, and there was talk about how the country would evolve into a pro-American nation providing access easy access for new oil pipelines.
Focus on Iraq
Meanwhile, the Bush Administration focused on Iraq and the demolition of the Saddam Hussein regime. The US wanted to put Afghanistan behind us, so they redeployed many of their forces to Iraq. Unfortunately, the real enemy and the perpetrators of 9/11 was the Taliban.
The Sad Truth Sadly, Afghanistan had become America's forgotten war. Currently, America was tied down and absorbed in the intricacies of Iraq. Meanwhile, in this forgotten country of the Taliban and Heroin, NATO forces had confronted a resurgent Taliban especially in the southern Helmand province where the 24th Marine Expeditionary Unit (MEU) were deeply embedded.
The Desert Limo
Since it's implementation, the Humvee has served as the backbone for U.S. forces worldwide.
Over the years, the Humvee has evolved from a venerable troop carrier in the Persian Gulf War, Kosovo and Bosnia to a more heavily armored vehicle battling bomb-wielding insurgents in the shifting global war on terror urban combat.
The Humvee is heavily armored, but it has a flat, vulnerable bottom and its low to the ground making it vulnerable to IED attacks.
Roadside bombs are among the leading killers of troops in Iraq -- a grim statistic that could be drastically improved once the deployment of the Mine Resistant Ambush Protected (MRAP) vehicles is fully implemented.
Sadly, a total MRAP replacement cannot come soon enough -- may never come before our troops go home.
Already, casualties in Iraq this summer had significantly improved due to the improved armor and design of the MRAP.
This is encouraging, but we should have been ready before we headed out in harm's way.
The Wall
We kept our helmets strapped firmly, our body armor tight, like it was going to run away if we didn't keep it buttoned down.
And as I looked out the blast-resistant windows, I could see concrete security barriers, blast walls, deep trenches, barbed wire -- all the vestiges of war that provided some protection against the surging insurgency.
It was true that these walls added to the congestion and traffic jams. But in this high-terror environment of random and almost weekly suicide attacks, these barriers of limited but viable protection seemed called for.
They kept the coalition forces safer, they allowed aid workers to carry out their duties, but also served as a physical and psychological distance from the local population they we were deployed to work with.
I felt relatively secure, safe in a foreign land marked by discord and lurking danger.
We drove towards the city center. Normally the majority of the vehicles would comprise of NATO convoys tearing through the city at breakneck speed like it was the Santa Monica Freeway.
With all the busses, vehicles, sedans, bicycles, carts, with dozens of round abouts and absolutely no traffic lights, congestion was a grueling finger cramping nightmare.
Today, we were given top priority for safety, and ISAF would allocate all resources possible to ensure we were kept safe as we rolled down the streets of Kabul.
The Children
However, at this moment, the roads were secure and the only people we saw were busy shopkeepers and the empty look of children waving, begging and staring hopelessly into our humvees. Seeing kids was definitely a welcome sight. They were indigent, many without families or homes, some living in shelters, some not getting a proper education.
But deep down inside, I sensed that they were amazing human souls, displaced, downtrodden but full of spirit and energy.
But inside the heavily-armored Humvee, I also felt displaced, almost a world and distant land away
For a striking moment, I wished we could stop in our tracks, get out in the fresh air and give these children a warm, soft hug. Why not, without candy or change, that was the only thing I could offer or perhaps just a chuckle, a banter for hope for a brighter future one day.
I remembered poignant images of The Kite Runner and the unconditional love and commitment Hassan had for Amir, and how Amir eventually made up for his past failures and returned home to help his old friend Hassan, whose son is in trouble.
Video shot by Monk Films in 2006 showing the "dirt paths and wild streets" of Kabul.
The Entrance
In Kabul, speed is survival. If we are moving fast, the enemy will have less time to target us. I sat erect, scanning our surroundings intently. If we were to get attacked, I at least wanted to get a chance to see the eyeballs of the enemy.
Soon but not soon enough, we were driving through the main gate. A quick check, then we were firmly inside the Green zone where the International Security Assistance Force (ISAF) is headquarters.
What a sigh of relief. No where on this land was fully safe, but for now we could unshed our body armor and loosen up our chin straps.
The Troops
We stayed there through dinner, and while we waited, we spoke to some young Brits about duty in Afghanistan. They shared their stories: their gripes, their victories. They missed their families, their wives and girlfriends, their country, but most ardently their alcohol. Meanwhile German troops could drink beer and wine. British and US forces had to settle for coke or red bull.
At the Headquarters, there are more than 2200 service members from 42 NATO nations. Everyone seemed to work well and even socialize well together. It appeared that they were willing to set aside any cultural differences and even make a strong attempt to learn each other's norms and nuances.
The Drug Problem
We also talked informally about the drug problem -- no, not within NATO. The Heroin trade was serious in this impoverished nation. Afghanistan is the world's largest exporter of heroin. It is the country's main cash crop. There is more heroin that is exported in Afghanistan than cocaine is produced in Colombia. There were even reports that children were becoming addicted to cocaine.
Although some of the three billion dollars annual revenues goes back to the the local economy such as jobs for farmers and reconstruction, the vast majority of the revenue is funneled to the Taliban.
Though Opium poppies grow in almost every province of Afghanistan, the problem area is the south. In the Helmand province, where the Taliban maintains a stronghold, they are said to levy a 40% tax (1) on opium cultivation and trafficking.
In addition, many of the security forces have turned into heavy opium users
After the meal and the chat, it was now time to check into the safe confines of the Serena Hotel.
Safe and Serena
Situated amidst bombed-out buildings, theSerena is the modern symbol of capitalism and safety making a bold attempt to flee from and flaunt the suppression of the insurgency.
The Serena's design is stylish and the service is first-rate superb. When walking in, I felt like I was in the magnanimous confines of the Marriott or a Hilton in Bahrain, Istanbul or any world-class city. The hotel is as safe as you can get. You go through a full security screening each time you enter and no one is allowed to drive straight in from the street.
Inside the magnificent confines of this 5-star hotel, hosts a beautiful courtyard and a luxurious swimming pool -- the only feasible place to take a dip in the whole city of Kabul.
The price for a room averages $250 per night, which is very steep considering that Afghanistan is one of the poorest countries in the world. But it was worth every single Afghani.
The Serena Hotel is a an oasis of safety for the many UN workers, contractors, journalists and aid workers. But even this sanctuary can be infiltrated. For meals, the buffets are delicious and the fruit juices are divine. There is no alcohol, and some of the guests I talked to took an issue to that.
Fish and Chips and Fosters and Family in a British Pub
I Just returned from a wonderful weekend in London. It was a happy reunion. I had not seen Kae for nearly 20 years. She was just a little baby girl the last time i saw her when Kim and the girls visited in Georgia. Together we went to Florida and Disneyworld. I was in school, back then.
I saw Rio last summer in NYC when she was visiting Kim but had missed Kae. So it was especially sweet to see them both again.
Me and the Girls
I was extremely lucky that Monday just happened to be a Belgium National holiday. That allowed me to puchase a Eurorail ticket to London and spend 30 hours there. The train ride only took about 2 1/2 hours and the ride was very smooth. The city was splendidly beautiful -- unlike any place I've ever visited. If I had to make a comparison, London has the cosmopolitan of NYC, the museums of DC, and the old Europe look of Paris
Colin and I truly enjoyed watching the Nats play the Braves at the new ballpark. We had a glorious time and enjoyed the sights and food, too.
