This evening, I had the distinct pleasure to attend Colin's first public recital at Thomas Jefferson Elementary. Colin blasted away tones and tunes with his jazzy, jaddie trombone, and I along with 100 other screaming, pride-filled parents watched in excitement and amazement.
Colin appeared so confident and self-assured as he pushed and pulled the piece of brass back and forth. I almost felt like strutting my dance shoes up and down, feeling the jazzy tunes vibrate my whole mind and body as Colin played on and my pride filled the air so thick I could cut it.
Well Done Son! Keep up the Great work. See you at your next performance and until then practice and play hard.
Only one word can describe what I laid eyes on today -- no, not incredible: "Magnificus"
Rome has shaped up to be by far the most beautiful European city I've visited this year--and this is my 4th trip to Europe since last Dec.
And the Colosseum is just breathlessly amazing in it's astronomical feat of engineering and even more amazing that it's still around and in great shape after over 2000 years.
Couldn't believe what laid in front and all around me -- the ancient city of Rome in all it's grandeur and imagined in my minds eye Julius Caesar or King Augustus addressing the crowds in the Roman forum.
Indeed my visit to ancient Rome and my run around the ruins of Palatino has been the highlight of my European vacation and has definitely been the most inspiring and uplifting.
What is the lesson -- that remains to be seem -- but I know I can take what Rome has taught me (that if we dont learn from our mistakes, we are destined to repeat iit) for a very long time, if not a lifetime.
During my tour, I was amazed and saddened to hear about how the Christians were persecuted in the hands of the authorities of the Roman Empire. In fact thousands of Christians were martyred by Emperor Nero who blamed Christianity for the great fire of Rome. Refusal to worship the Roman emperor was considered treasonous and punishable by execution. Christians were tortured, burned, starved and even forced to gladiatorial contests to amuse spectators.
That was until Emperor Constantine was exposed to Christianity by his mother, Helena. Constantine followed Christianity after experiencing a dramatic event at a battle when he looked up to the sun and saw a cross of light. He would eventually claim the emperorship in the West.
Off to Germany tomorrow after an inspiring morning run.
My first full day at Rome. Spent half the day at the Vatican enjoying the museums and the glorious Sistine Chapel in all its glory.
Awe struck by the vivid colors of Michelangelo's paintings!!
Then in the evening had the great luck to catch a Sat night mass at St Peters Basilica with all the pomp from the papal priests and well adorned Swiss guards.
What an inspirational experience--now I was ready to be motivated by a brisk run around the Roman Riverfront.
From St Peters to the River then cross the foot bridge by the little island in the center, then proceed toward Rome's main street, via del Corso.
Via del Corso is typical Roman -- from narrow and cobblestone flanked by Corinthian columns to bustling and vibrant.
On the way, ran across a lot of old ruins and chapels that must have been over a thousand years old. what an amazing juxtaposition of old and young life. This gave me energy.
After the run, I was famished, so I sampled some of the tastiest pizzas I've ever had -- I had 3 portions -- with portapollo mushrooms, chunky tomatoes and zuchini.
Wow, it truly was the best pizza ive ever eaten bar none and now I'm so stuffed, im ready to sleep. Goodnite All.
Heading to the Colisseum 'morrow. Must need rest to face those gladiators! zzzz
You won't believe this wonderful, surprising story happening on such a momentous journey thus far. Well, I met Anastasia back at the end of July when she was flying from Germany to SF.
This was her first flight to the States and she was coming as an exchange student for 4 months. We sat together from the flight to Stuttgart to Atlanta. Essentially, I was the first American that she met on this trip, and it was quite an honor to hold that title.
Well now it's Thanksgiving day, 2008, and guess who is aboard the same plane with me. I was completely floored when I saw her walk down the aisle, smiling.
Yes, Anastasia was flying back and the wonderful, divine coincidence was that we were again on the same flight together. She remembered me -- even told me that for some strange reason she was thinking of me earlier today before she boarded her first flight from California.
She must be my lucky angel. She shared with me stories and pictures of her wonderful time with her new friends in SF. I was so happy to see and hear them -- this was truly my lucky day.
Today, I flew to Atlanta on the way to Rome and ran the very last part of the Atlanta Thanksgiving Marathon with Jeff through the heart and scenic Atlanta -- one of my favorite cities -- and the one that I have loved since I was a child.
Yes we bandit the run, but considering my flight did not leave DC until 0700, and the Marathon started at 0800, this wasn't bad.
The weather was absolutely superb and the people who ran just as wholesome as hospitable as you might expect.
Then after the run and a cool down, Jeff took me to see the house for the first time and had a very sumptuous and ceremonial Thanksgiving dinner with Liz and family.
Jeff and I have known each other for a few years since we served in GTMO together. Shared stories of running in Cuba from the lighthouse to East Caravella and all those wonderful, salty sea stories from back in the day.
Meeting the entire family was a true delight. It was nice meeting Liz for the very first time (after speaking on the phone for the last 2 plus years) and the children were all very well behaved and impressive.
Liz even asked me to say grace for the entire family which was a deep and true honor.
One of the best Thanksgiving dinners I've had probably since 2001 OEF cruise aboard USS John C. Stennis.
All this and the earlier run and made it to my flight on time to Stuttgart -- wow what a precursor to a joyful and productive trip.
Today we went to the National Museum of American History Grand Opening weekend.
Lots of people and lots of great acts and remembrances. Displays the historic flag that inspired the national anthem. Costumed characters wander the halls and great Presidents and Leaders that served and sacrificed to make our Nation the great it is today.
It was about time -- been waiting for over 2 years for the museum to reopen. Ran by it almost everyday, hoping and waiting for the doors to open soon.
And American History is my favorite museum. We ran into friends there -- which was a nice, pleasant surprise. We were supposed to go biking instead, but it was too windy and cold, so the museum was the right warm, cozy place to go.
I'm excited -- now another great museum for me to explore while I run the Mall and a chance to venture into the annals of our ancestors of this Great Country and City. God Bless DC.
Just completed the Richmond Marathon. Richmond -- why Richmond? Because it is America's Friendliest Marathon -- that's why.
But just barely three weeks from the Marine Corps? Was I fully recovered. Not at all and I paid the price from Mile 10 onwards. The fact is, my leg muscles were not fully oxygenated -- capillaries were not able to free oxygen-rich blood to my muscles.
So was this inadvisable to do 2 marathons within 3 weeks -- not at all and I strongly recommend against this.
And needless to say, I didn't get a Personal Record (PR)
But did I enjoy it? Yes, absolutely. Here's why:
1) Did not rain despite the fact that it rained the last 48 hours prior up to an hour before the race (Also thunderstorms were forecasted) But it was very windy.
2) They let you wear an IPOD. So glad I decided to wear it. Almost didn't b/c of the rain forecast, though, but really glad I took a chance.
3) Everyone (even the runners) were extremely friendly and talked w/ you (although all you could say was "Man, I'm really struggling and suffering."
4) The crowds were awesome and provided great cheer -- Yes, especially the fraternity buddies.
5) The route was flat with several downhills (So where were the uphills? Is Richmond all downhill?)
6) The route was also very scenic and took us through the cities and to people's front yards. Especially liked the beginning on E Broad Street
7) There was junk food during the course -- although I didn't partake but it sure was nice to look at.
8) Only 4500 runners -- had plenty of room to hit my stride (Because anyone who was even fast, had already passed me by Mile 2).
9) The Post Race party was awesome (So was the Omni Hotel for both pre and post race)
10) Outstanding massage at the end (even though it was a masseur, but he was a great conversationalist)
Also, IF you're going to do an out of town marathon -- Richmond is the closest to DC.
Finally, the best part of the run -- It's only a 25 mile marathon. The last mile is most downhill that I set a PR on that mile alone. And I was so pumped for the final .2 mile that I just ran like a Banshee -- about a 5 minute mile!!!
Well, I set a personal record for the Marine Corps Marathon Sunday.
But it didn't look that way, the first 8 miles -- it looked pretty bleak, in fact.
The race was packed, bumper to bumper with racers every feet in every direction and you couldn't get past them, even if you went around.
Luckily after mile 8, things started to thin out and I could finally hit my stride. But was it too late?
I ran so fast, that I actually averaged about 8:30 for the remainder 18.2 miles which I've never done before or knew that I had it in me to do.
And I barely made it sub-Four. Came in at 3:55 (and change) -- a personal record -- Huge drop from last year at 4:19 and an even larger drop from 2 years ago at 5:38.
Also the weather was just lovely in the mid 60s and no rain (but there was wind especially going over the 14th St Bridge).
I ran with my racing shoes (flats) despite developing humongous blisters in the soles of my feet. My feet were so sore w/ every step but I tried to put that behind me and not think about it.
What did I learn -- next year, get there early so I can be further up front of the starting corral.
Munich is a charming city with a small town flair. But in the early 1930's, it was the birthplace of totalitarianism and terror. There was so little I knew about how a short and previously-defeated dictator from Austria could gain power in such a sophisticated and intelligent country like Germany.
And there is little the country can be proud of. In Munich the memorials are small and inconspicuous. Some are hidden behind trees away from the public eye; many are in view but without honor and explanation.
Third Reich Tour
That is why if you are interested in National Socialist history, you may want to consider taking the Third Reich tour.
After visiting elegant and historic Munich, I had the tremendous honor to pay homage at one of the most notorious and infamous concentration camps in Germany -- Dachau.
This weekend I visited two important places that I will remember for a very long time.
I visited the beautiful Bavarian city of Munich. This city had its origin in the Middle Ages and by the 1500's had become the arts and crafts capital of Southern Germany.
But arts and architecture was not the main reason why I made the 200 plus KM drive into Munich. It was the history -- no, not the 72 Olympics, but WW II.
In 1919, Adolf Hitler came to Munich from Austria but nothing more than a suitcase with everything he owned. He was a painter and watercolored some postcards which he sold to tourists.
The story is very sad, how a nobody with no background, an evil spirit and virtually no leadership skills could come to power with no checks and balances.
So in Munich, I took a tour called the Third Reich Tour which took us to sites spread out throughout the city where Hitler the Nazi party and the SS Army came to power.
I didn't want to and felt bad about it, but I knew that I needed to know -- I was seeking the truth.
Among a doze sites, we visited the Odeonsplatz which served as a parade field for the SS, who often staged nighttime rallies there.
We visited the actual beer hall which was the scene of several Nazi meetings and some of Hitler's most memorable speeches.
The saddest part of the entire tour was that of the dozen sites we visited, there was only one memorial for the Jewish people -- and this memorial is hidden behind a very large oak tree. Can't even see it from the street. It's a shame but the people of Munich are deeply ashamed of the past and prefer not to talk about it.
But if we don't talk, how can we learn the lessons of the past.
Today was a day, I'll never forget and I hope I learned something that I can take with me and would impact me for an entire lifetime.
Two days after Afghanistan and a day after Amsterdam, I found unbound energy in my bones to drive down to Paris to see Kim and Rintaro. Guess what:
The tour de France is happening today downtown and the spectators are everywhere even without Lance Armstrong. It's like being in Times Square for New Year's Eve -- Lucky, Lucky!
As wonderful and memorable as the trip was it didn't start out on track.
First the drive from Mons -- it took me forever to pack and check out of the hotel.
Second, I drove all around Paris looking for Kim and underestimated everything.
Kim sent me an email this morning and asked me to meet her and Rintaro at the Paris Marriott by 1:00 pm.
Well gues what, at 1:00 pm I had just driven into the city and was utterly driving in circles around this sacred city.
I stopped to call her cell phone but couldn't get through. Her cell phone was from HK -- Oh no, this wasn't good. It was not like being lost in DC or in an American city where you knew people or you could call, text or email. I had none of the above and didn't have an Iphone (since it was stolen from me a month ago).
No matter how many times I stopped to ask for directions, the nice people I met either couldn't or wouldn't speak any English.
Then I remembered that as a general rule, I should be prepared to speak just a little French when in Paris, but after being in Belgium yesterday, Amsterdam the day before, and Afghanistan just two days ago, it all started becoming a blur.
Finally, I was able to decipher some sketchy directions written on a napkin from some poor soul I nabbed at a restaurant and a las made it to the infamous Marriott but there was no Kim -- Well, what did you expect, I was over 2 hours late.
After calling and calling again, I finally reached her and we agreed to meet by the metro station near the museums at 4:30 pm. I rushed to get there because I knew it would take every waking second.
When I finally got there by 4:15 pm, I tried calling again. This time couldn't get through. I called and called and even tried several different pay phones.
No luck, No joy, No Kim.
As luck would have it, as I was exiting my 6th and final phone booth, I heard a sound: "Chito". It was lil Rintaro running towards me, scolding me for being late.
I've never been happier being scolded.
Needless, to say, we had a great time, visiting around the Eifel Tower, running around like we were in DC, and all throughout this wonderful city that has turned out to be my favorite so far in this European Excursion.
The trip itself was almost impossible to squeeze in, but in the end, it was worth the pain, the sacrifice, the mistakes. It took some flexibility, even some fluidity, but seeing family is something we should appreciate and make the effort to do.
Unfortunately for me, I had to drive back at midnight. I had a plane to catch from Brussels the next morning -- would have to pull an all nighter driving the freeway in France and Belgium -- but hey, it was all worth it and more.
As they say in France: "Laissez les bons temps roulez"-- let the good times roll!
Greetings from Deutschland. Serving my country here during a crucial time in history and an eerie throwback to the Cold War.
Lots going on and the weather has been quite chilly with high in the 60s the last couple of days. Don't miss the DC humidity about now.
I finally got a day off yesterday after working 12 hr shifts and went on a trip to the Bavarian Alps to an medieval German village.
The roadway meanders through some of the most scenic parts of Germany, with many vineyards and farmland along the route along the Rhine River up to this Castle of the old Bavarian king. King Ludwig.
I have done some of the most amazing and scenic running of my lifetime here. I have to say, its been quite thrilling and the air is so cool and refreshing that it feels good to just breathe it.
Just minutes away from where I'm staying, I ran out to the Black Forest where there is a historic Panzer Tank Trail where the German Army moved their tanks from one base to the other. Trail running is DC is great, but this the BOMB
The scenic town I visited yesterday is called Oberammergau--say that 10 times.
Every 10 years the entire town puts together a play called the Passion Play based on the life of Christ, dates from the 17th Century.
It was first performed in 1634, following a vow taken by the people of Oberammergau during an outbreak of bubonic plague, which killed 15,000 nearby Munich residents in 1634 – 1635 alone.
The frightened population of Oberammergau prayed to be spared, taking a vow to be fulfilled not by a few but by the whole community. They vowed to do something in which everyone, rich and poor alike, would have a part: a Passion Play, the most sacred of all stories. They would present the story of Christ to the world every 10 years forevermore if the Lord would remove the plague from their people. The town was spared, and a tradition was born.
The play is now performed at the start of each decade. Since 1860 the German text has remained virtually unchanged. The production is done in native German, but an English translation is available.
Though the cast is huge — 1,700 parts — performers must be Oberammergau natives, or have lived there for 10 years, or been married to a native and lived there for at least 10 years.
Performers consider it an honor to participate and leave their businesses to do so. The men even start growing full beards a year out to look authentic. The play is performed in the Passion Play Theatre on an open stage, which incorporates the natural setting into the backdrop and seating for 4,780 spectators.
Wow, Almost want to move to Germany, well maybe not quite, but anyhow, wonder what running in the dead of winter is like.... Well, better get back and serve my country and can't wait to wakeup for another run tomorrow. SMILE...
Colin and I truly enjoyed watching the Nats play the Braves at the new ballpark. We had a glorious time and enjoyed the sights and food, too.
Living in DC and witnessing all the drama and excitement of getting our own hometown National League baseball team and watching the stadium get built in front of my own eyes -- I love my Washington Nationals -- just as I have learned to love the Redskins (almost as much as my Falcons) and of course the DC United and the Caps.
But, no matter what happens or where I go, I'll never forget those Braves from the dusty city of Atlanta bringing it home and going to the World Series in 1991 and winning for 14 consecutive season.
Yes, I remember you and I'll never forget Sid Bream sliding into Home to beat the Pittsburgh Pirates in the 9th inning of the most glorious game I've ever watched (I was in SWOS then).
Go Nats, but for tonight (as well as every other night) Go Braves!
In Amsterdam -- After returning from the front lines, I took a tour bus to
Amsterdam yesterday. It was very interesting. Quite different than Kabul, and a lot more relaxing.
I was really impressed with the canals and architecture, but for me the easiest way to get around was by bike.
Amsterdam is one of the most bicycle-friendly cities in the world and is a centre of bicycle culture with good facilities for cyclists such as bike paths and bike racks.In the city centre, driving a car is discouraged. Parking fees are expensive, and many streets are closed to cars or are one-way.
The most important museums of Amsterdam are located on het Museumplein (Museum Square), located at the southern side of the Rijksmuseum.
The Silk Road from China to the Mediterranean Sea is one of the oldest and significant merchant routes in the world
During our event-filled, jam-packed, three-day, cross-country marathon we would visit three diverse regions (Kabul, Jalalabad and Kandahar). Kandahar, the second largest city in Afghanistan, is a major trading center for sheep, wool, cotton, silk, fruit and tobacco. Many empires have long fought over the city, due to its strategic location along the the Southern Asian trade routes. Afghanistan, a land-locked mountainous country, has long been a vital crossroads between the East and the West which centuries before was part of the ancient Silk Road.
24th MEU working with the locals from Garmsir.
The local government and citizens of Garmsir District are working to correct
the flow of the river back to its original course, after high water levels from
I found this video on YouTube which shows the true beauty of Afghanistan (some of it taken before the war took its brutal toll)
The chaotic madness of Kabul is surrounded by beautiful, idyllic, barren mountains. From within the compound, they look like cardboard cut-outs -- close and protective. But in reality, they are towering and distant -- with all the windy roads and tough, dangerous terrain; it could take a fortnight to reach the summit, but only with preparation and skill.
Some say that the terrain that is traversed by ATVs and donkeys are as dangerous as the enemy that lurks around it.
To really enjoy the natural beauty of this country, one must leave Kabul. There is a very rich history and diverse landscape in this amazing country.
History of Occupation
After all, the city was invaded by the Arabs during the 7th century and then by the British in the 19th century and then by the Soviets 30 years ago. Oddly enough, all occupiers have eventually failed. The Soviets occupied for nearly ten years but had to withdraw their forces from Kabul in 1989 the wake of increasing diplomatic pressures.
Soviet tanks during the occupation
Anti-Modernism
On the heights of the Kabul Gorge, you can still find pendants, daggers, sword hilts and scabbards dating back to the first Anglo-Afghan war (1839-1842). Sadly, all that remained from the British occupation of Afghanistan were thousands of dead and a steep opposition to foreign influence. That is probably why there was huge public backlash against modernization attempts by the Afghan government and why the country precipitously slipped backwards.
A Time of Peace
There was a time of peace and stability in Afghanistan. For over thirty years after World War II, the country was calm, stable and passionate about democracy. People from all around the world started visiting the country. They were enchanted with the raw, natural beauty, history and archeology, and the Afghans welcomed them with open arms.
But then in 1973, a military coup ousted the king, destabilizing the country. Then in the late 1970s under a communist regime, the country's became more impoverished, more unstable. Then in 1979, the Soviets came knocking, only to be embroiled in a ten-year war that killed thousands. The Soviets were finally driven out by US-backed resistance fighters, some of the same fighters who we are facing today.
Landscape
Landmines are still prevalent in Afghanistan
The countryside of Afghanistan is rustic and breathtaking. From a distance, the rugged hills and countryside can be poetically beautiful. With its luscious landscape and towering mountains, it is undiscovered beauty marked by the ravages of war. From time to time, you see Soviet tanks ravaged and rusting. Large holes like craters where the Soviets dug in their tanks. We pass thousands of destroyed homes, twisted pieces of artillery remind us of the scope and brutality of that war.
This landlocked country sandwiched in between Iran and Pakistan is in a prime location and has a lot to offer. It has suffered three decades of war and a seven-year drought. Overtime, the flags change but the victims remain the villagers who labor in the fields that have been ravaged by the Taliban. Life is short here; for some, there is not much to life to live for.
Despite all the horrors of war, the country is charming and naturally beautiful which needs to be appreciated and preserved. The city over the years has been destroyed many times over and then reconstructed, only to be faced with new regimes.
My Reflections
During this trip while visiting the sites and enjoying the scenery as we were transported from one location to another, I thought long and hard about what we were doing and why we were here.
Simply put, Afghanistan is critical because we must defeat the Taliban, the culprits of 9/11.
War is Winnable
Unlike Iraq, the Afghan war is the right war to fight and although extremely complex and difficult, ultimately can be winnable. We can push back the Taliban's advances and leave the nation of Afghanistan with a government that can govern effectively and provide security to its people -- people who hopefully may deem the Taliban ineffective -- who have suffered painfully for so many decades.
Why Afghanistan
Al-Qaeda has used Afghanistan as a base for training and operations for attacks against the US for the last ten years. Both Al-Qaeda and the Taliban poses a huge threat to our national security, so an invasion of Afghanistan by the US and NATO was the right thing to do, and we have little choice but to succeed, or else history may prove this to be a mistake.
American Intervention Goes Way Back
I'm sure many of you have watched the movie "Charlie Wilson's War". If it wasn't for the CIA intervention in the 1980s, the enemy that we are fighting today may not be as strong.
Charlie Wilson in Afghanistan years ago
In the 1980s, the CIA poured millions of dollars and thousands of weapons into Afghanistan to help the mujahideen fight the Soviet. Perhaps this was not too bad of an idea. But the mistake that we made was not helping to rebuild the country after the Soviets retreated.
Now the Taliban is using the same weapons against us. How does this affect where we are now -- there is not a clear and cut answer. The main concern was that this operation was done in secret behind closed doors. If an endeavor is important and the right thing to do, then it needs to withstand the scrutiny of the people who will be impacted.
The Power of Negotiation
The repercussions that we suffer show time and time again that clandestine backdoor deals normally don't work (in the long run). History books don't lie or spin the truth. I realize that clandestine operations wrt CIA is necessary and critical for national security. They are normally "outside the box" thinking and tend to be laced in good intentions -- which I believe can be the right thing to do. But...
It's Not the Mistakes, Stupid...
In life, I am normally forgiving to honest mistakes, but not receptive to being oblivious to them. This means, that if a surgeon cuts the wrong vein, this is bad, but I'll likely forgive you. But did you identify your mistake, disclose it, discuss it, and take demonstrable actions to recover from it?
I learned (after many personal and professional failures), the best way to make decisions whether strategic or perhaps even quite routine is to be open and transparent about it, and even be willing to sell it to others, whether you deem them important or not.
Out On the Table
Being open and honest means putting on the table all you want to negotiate and to have an open discussion with all stake holders. It doesn't matter how wild and crazy (wrazy) or completely irrelevant the proposal is -- it's on the table and you're going to vet these wrazy ideas with those who know the most. Vetings are not necessarily democratic -- it doesn't mean that it has to be voted on, or approved unanimously. It does mean that you have to completely vet it and before you take objective action, the key players have been informed and have made their say, for which you have listened. When listening, give it your complete and undivided attention -- not just the message, but how it was delivered and the politics behind the delivery. Life is not black and white -- it is quite gray.
The Art of Selling
Open Negotiation also includes selling the idea. When I say sell, it is just not to your normal customers (subscribers, followers, surrogates). It is to everyone that you can think of that has a say or think they have a say. Audiences are never fully well defined -- well, again they can be quite gray.
That way other key players can weigh in and provide valuable feedback and pit falls.
If you or your agency has a proposal, you have to pitch it and fully disclose your intentions and objectives -- no holds barred.
Decisions also need to include Reflections of lessons and mistakes from way back and the political environment that exists.
If you decide to make decision behind closed doors -- this is where backdoor deals can get caught between the door and the door jam.
Can we negotiate with the Taliban? President Hamid Karzai tends to think so -- and forge a path to peace. Applying my thoughts, the Taliban is the enemy and negotiation should include those who do not wish us well.
The main lesson here is we are already suffering from the repercussions of past mistakes, can we now move forward and not make them again.
Today we visited Jalalabad, a noisy, bustling city of rickshaws, bikes and pickup trucks. People in stalls selling just about everything from dried fruits, tobacco to household goods. Some people sell their wares on blankets spread over the sidewalk. Afghan boys jumping into the filthy canal water to wash off and bathe showing that the basic living conditions are miserable and atrocious - one of the poorest countries in the world.
Jalalabad is a critical location because it is close to Pakistan where a lot of the Taliban are hiding out. The rugged borders are difficult for NATO vehicles to patrol but very permeable for insurgents who can travel on foot and donkeys.
That's why it is critical for NATO to train the Afghan police and army. It is extremely critical for the long term success of Afghanistan for the Afghan National Army continues to grow in both strength and skillsets.
Indeed, The ANA has shown tremendous growth since July 2007, when the first commandos graduated from a grueling three-month training.
But the biggest concern in Afghanistan is not security. There will always be violence and suicide bombers. Just like organized crime in the US, the insurgents can never be completely wiped out. The Taliban can always run and hide across the border. The biggest concern and the element that will best defeat the insurgents is a strong government and reducing the amount of corruption especially amongst high-level officials. The existence of the heroin trade, unsecured borders and informal markets create conditions for administrative corruption. After more than two decades of conflict, Afghanistan is facing a complex set of political, economical and social challenges. Will she pull through?
Fair Share in NATO
And with most countries in NATO not providing their fair share of the requisite number of troops and equipment, it is even more critical that America train the Afghans properly and expeditiously.
But as casualties rise to record levels, the overall support of the war may soon plummet. It is now more imperative that we train the Afghan army and police so that they can continue to fight the Taliban for us.
And once again, the narcotics problem is feeding the Taliban to buy weapons which are used to kill our Troops. However, the narcotics effort cannot be won by our Troops alone. It is a law enforcement problem and one that must be contained by Afghan security forces.
Here is a video posted by Inayet showing a typical busy street in Jalalabad.
We first landed in a C-17 in Kabul at the International Airport. There were no limos waiting; no meet and greet holding signs -- just a thick haze of dust and humidity so thick you could slice it with a saif (curved, 19th century Arabian sword) and spread it on a chapati.
Kabul International -- from 1979 to 1989, the airport was run by the Soviet Union Red Army. After the invasion, the airport was used exclusively by the US Armed Forces and ISAF. After removal of the UN sanctions in 2002, the airport was opened up to civilian airlines.
We were methodically whisked away in a convoy of Humvees sandwiched between two armored personnel carriers. NATO Soldiers with machine guns kept a vigilant watch for insurgents or anything suspicious.
Who We Were
We were part of an advisory group for the NATO Supreme Allied Commander. Our boss, General Craddock, as NATO's top military commander oversaw the progress in Afghanistan. We would be receiving many briefs and updates during our short visit.
SHAPE Headquarters in Mons, Belgium
Who Met Us
Comprised of forces from over 25 nations, they were part of the International Security Assistance Force . Responsible at first for the security around Kabul, their mission had now expanded to the whole of Afghanistan, a conflict that we had come to observe.
A War we Had Previously Won
In December 2001, the world looked extremely different. The US had essentially shocked, awed and terminated the Taliban regime in Afghanistan, and there was talk about how the country would evolve into a pro-American nation providing access easy access for new oil pipelines.
Focus on Iraq
Meanwhile, the Bush Administration focused on Iraq and the demolition of the Saddam Hussein regime. The US wanted to put Afghanistan behind us, so they redeployed many of their forces to Iraq. Unfortunately, the real enemy and the perpetrators of 9/11 was the Taliban.
The Sad Truth Sadly, Afghanistan had become America's forgotten war. Currently, America was tied down and absorbed in the intricacies of Iraq. Meanwhile, in this forgotten country of the Taliban and Heroin, NATO forces had confronted a resurgent Taliban especially in the southern Helmand province where the 24th Marine Expeditionary Unit (MEU) were deeply embedded.
The Desert Limo
Since it's implementation, the Humvee has served as the backbone for U.S. forces worldwide.
Over the years, the Humvee has evolved from a venerable troop carrier in the Persian Gulf War, Kosovo and Bosnia to a more heavily armored vehicle battling bomb-wielding insurgents in the shifting global war on terror urban combat.
The Humvee is heavily armored, but it has a flat, vulnerable bottom and its low to the ground making it vulnerable to IED attacks.
Roadside bombs are among the leading killers of troops in Iraq -- a grim statistic that could be drastically improved once the deployment of the Mine Resistant Ambush Protected (MRAP) vehicles is fully implemented.
Sadly, a total MRAP replacement cannot come soon enough -- may never come before our troops go home.
Already, casualties in Iraq this summer had significantly improved due to the improved armor and design of the MRAP.
This is encouraging, but we should have been ready before we headed out in harm's way.
The Wall
We kept our helmets strapped firmly, our body armor tight, like it was going to run away if we didn't keep it buttoned down.
And as I looked out the blast-resistant windows, I could see concrete security barriers, blast walls, deep trenches, barbed wire -- all the vestiges of war that provided some protection against the surging insurgency.
It was true that these walls added to the congestion and traffic jams. But in this high-terror environment of random and almost weekly suicide attacks, these barriers of limited but viable protection seemed called for.
They kept the coalition forces safer, they allowed aid workers to carry out their duties, but also served as a physical and psychological distance from the local population they we were deployed to work with.
I felt relatively secure, safe in a foreign land marked by discord and lurking danger.
We drove towards the city center. Normally the majority of the vehicles would comprise of NATO convoys tearing through the city at breakneck speed like it was the Santa Monica Freeway.
With all the busses, vehicles, sedans, bicycles, carts, with dozens of round abouts and absolutely no traffic lights, congestion was a grueling finger cramping nightmare.
Today, we were given top priority for safety, and ISAF would allocate all resources possible to ensure we were kept safe as we rolled down the streets of Kabul.
The Children
However, at this moment, the roads were secure and the only people we saw were busy shopkeepers and the empty look of children waving, begging and staring hopelessly into our humvees. Seeing kids was definitely a welcome sight. They were indigent, many without families or homes, some living in shelters, some not getting a proper education.
But deep down inside, I sensed that they were amazing human souls, displaced, downtrodden but full of spirit and energy.
But inside the heavily-armored Humvee, I also felt displaced, almost a world and distant land away
For a striking moment, I wished we could stop in our tracks, get out in the fresh air and give these children a warm, soft hug. Why not, without candy or change, that was the only thing I could offer or perhaps just a chuckle, a banter for hope for a brighter future one day.
I remembered poignant images of The Kite Runner and the unconditional love and commitment Hassan had for Amir, and how Amir eventually made up for his past failures and returned home to help his old friend Hassan, whose son is in trouble.
Video shot by Monk Films in 2006 showing the "dirt paths and wild streets" of Kabul.
The Entrance
In Kabul, speed is survival. If we are moving fast, the enemy will have less time to target us. I sat erect, scanning our surroundings intently. If we were to get attacked, I at least wanted to get a chance to see the eyeballs of the enemy.
Soon but not soon enough, we were driving through the main gate. A quick check, then we were firmly inside the Green zone where the International Security Assistance Force (ISAF) is headquarters.
What a sigh of relief. No where on this land was fully safe, but for now we could unshed our body armor and loosen up our chin straps.
The Troops
We stayed there through dinner, and while we waited, we spoke to some young Brits about duty in Afghanistan. They shared their stories: their gripes, their victories. They missed their families, their wives and girlfriends, their country, but most ardently their alcohol. Meanwhile German troops could drink beer and wine. British and US forces had to settle for coke or red bull.
At the Headquarters, there are more than 2200 service members from 42 NATO nations. Everyone seemed to work well and even socialize well together. It appeared that they were willing to set aside any cultural differences and even make a strong attempt to learn each other's norms and nuances.
The Drug Problem
We also talked informally about the drug problem -- no, not within NATO. The Heroin trade was serious in this impoverished nation. Afghanistan is the world's largest exporter of heroin. It is the country's main cash crop. There is more heroin that is exported in Afghanistan than cocaine is produced in Colombia. There were even reports that children were becoming addicted to cocaine.
Although some of the three billion dollars annual revenues goes back to the the local economy such as jobs for farmers and reconstruction, the vast majority of the revenue is funneled to the Taliban.
Though Opium poppies grow in almost every province of Afghanistan, the problem area is the south. In the Helmand province, where the Taliban maintains a stronghold, they are said to levy a 40% tax (1) on opium cultivation and trafficking.
In addition, many of the security forces have turned into heavy opium users
After the meal and the chat, it was now time to check into the safe confines of the Serena Hotel.
Safe and Serena
Situated amidst bombed-out buildings, theSerena is the modern symbol of capitalism and safety making a bold attempt to flee from and flaunt the suppression of the insurgency.
The Serena's design is stylish and the service is first-rate superb. When walking in, I felt like I was in the magnanimous confines of the Marriott or a Hilton in Bahrain, Istanbul or any world-class city. The hotel is as safe as you can get. You go through a full security screening each time you enter and no one is allowed to drive straight in from the street.
Inside the magnificent confines of this 5-star hotel, hosts a beautiful courtyard and a luxurious swimming pool -- the only feasible place to take a dip in the whole city of Kabul.
The price for a room averages $250 per night, which is very steep considering that Afghanistan is one of the poorest countries in the world. But it was worth every single Afghani.
The Serena Hotel is a an oasis of safety for the many UN workers, contractors, journalists and aid workers. But even this sanctuary can be infiltrated. For meals, the buffets are delicious and the fruit juices are divine. There is no alcohol, and some of the guests I talked to took an issue to that.
